Pukapuka is one of
the most remote places on earth. It's
closer to Samoa than it is to the capital island of Rarotonga which is 1150 kms
(715 miles) southeast. It has its own language
and customs and other Cook Islanders say its main asset is beautiful girls. It's also the most densely populated part of
the Cooks (390 people per square kilometer).
The
Island's name is usually said to derive from the puka tree (Hernandia
nymphaeifolia) which grows all over the place.
But Puka-Puka itself means 'land of little hills', and others say that's
the real origin of the name which was given to the island by the first
Polynesians who came here. Some know it
as 'Danger Island' because of an 8km submerged reef - Te Arai - and dangerous
rip tides around it to the west.
There
are three islets on the huge triangular shaped reef - Ko to the south east,
Frigate Bird to the southwest and the main islet of Wale ("wah-lay")
to the north where there are three villages.
They're called Ngake, Loto and Yato ("thar-toe") - or
Windward, Central and Leeward. The
highest point is less than 5 meters (16.5 feet) above sea level. The soil is infertile and coconut palms,
pandanus, puraka - a variety of taro tolerant of the environment - and a few
breadfruit trees make up the main vegetation.
And mosquitos are a particular pest....although they're not malarial.
Culture and traditions
They
are like palm weaving (right) have remained unchanged for centuries. And even
with the arrival of an irregular air service, the islands unlikely to be
overwhelmed with tourists.
The five hour flight
from Rarotonga is scheduled to operate only once every six weeks or so, but it
rarely does these days because of fuel shortages on the island. The airport is about an hour's boat trip from
the main settlement of Wale.
Communal
Conservation
Living on Pukapuka is like being in a commune. The islanders
practice traditional conservation which calls for entire villages to move from
atoll to atoll for periods of time. But this is not a nomadic existence...rather
it's one with a focus on maintaining the delicate ecological balance. The
felling of trees is also prohibited without permission from village elders.
If
a bird is killed out of season, or crabs or coconuts taken early, small but
humiliating fines are imposed. For more serious offences, the person is
treated as a child until sincere remorse is shown. The offender cannot
speak at meetings and is given a child's food and wages.
Games
The islanders have a
passion for their own form of cricket called kirikiti. It originated in
Samoa. Games are played with a long
three-sided bat and a "ball" or "bowl" that can best be
described as a solid block of wood. The number of players is decided by the
challenging team, but it's never less than 20 or more than 40. The batsman -
who doesn't wear shoes, let alone shin pads - doesn't run himself. He has a
bunch of younger islanders who do it for him.
Every time a batsman is out, not
only are there chants of triumph but also some provocative macho dances, before
he's replaced with a batsman from the opposing team. Umpires use their whistle
for any number of reasons (including just the sheer joy of being alive), and
games continue for an indefinite number of days, before the winner is decided
by a mysterious process that seems to be known only to participants. One report
of a 35 a side match says pseudo karate routines, obscene speeches, ridiculing
and teasing are an essential part of a good game. There's also a women only version! And in both cases, the match is played for
food...which the losing team have to fish for.
Gardening for Health
Pukapuka
is leading the rest of the islands in the fight against non-communicable
diseases by establishing "healthy eating" gardens. Each village is setting them up as part of an
action plan to monitor and help reduce cardiovascular diseases, cancers,
diabetes and chronic respiratory conditions.
Vegetables, root crops and fruits are being planted and islanders are
being encouraged to eat them in preference to packaged processed food.
Language
English is rarely spoken, although most locals know some and
children are taught it in the local school. It's estimated just over 2,000
people in Oceania speak Pukapukan. If you want to impress, here are a few
words:
PEWEA: Hello, how are you?
KO LELEI WUA: I'm fine
ATA WAI WOLO: Hello/Thank you
KO LELEI WUA: I'm fine
ATA WAI WOLO: Hello/Thank you
A written form of the language does
not exist, but a unique project is underway to translate the Bible into
Pukapukan. New Zealand scholar, Dr Mary
Sailsbury and her husband, Kevin are working with the Pukapuka community to produce
what will be the very first work in the language.
Tsunami
Survivors
The entire population
is said to be descended from just 14 people who survived a catastrophic storm
and tidal waves (a tsunami) over 500 years ago.
Not
surprising then that it was previously called Danger Island - a name it was given
back in 1765 by English commodore, John Byrom who found himself unable to land
because of the heavy seas pounding a large, submerged reef to the west. The name still appears on some maps to this
day. The first European to sight it
though was Spanish explorer, Alvaro de Mendana on 20 August, 1595 - St.
Bernard's Day. He named it San
Bernando.
Celebrations
New year celebrations
last almost to the end of February when
the Island Chiefs (Kau Wo Wolo) and the Island Council - pictured right
- hold their annual meeting to review
the rules for governing the island in the coming year and the fines for
breaking those rules. The Chiefs then visit
each village to share the rules and let islanders discuss and ask questions
about them. Caretakers or The Pules
enforce the rules.
Each
village then has a day long celebration (vananga) where the men of each village
go to the other villages to share the rules, have a feed and dance with the
women. And that's followed by the annual
imukai to celebrate and share food.
This year, Yato shared kaveu and birds, Ngake shared over three hundred
fish and Loto shared fish and mawu (twice-baked imu taro mixed with coconut
milk). The cooking of the mawu took over three days. The first day involved
going to the taro patch and peeling and grating the taro. The second day
involved gathering coconuts on the motu and making all the fresh coconut cream.
The third day involved wrapping the mixture in banana leaves and baking it
twice in the imu (underground oven).
How to Reach
Although
the island features a well-maintained airstrip, flights from Rarotonga are very
infrequent. The five hour flight from Rarotonga now operates when there is a
Government charter once every six weeks or so. The island is closer to Samoa
than to the rest of the Cook Islands and transport via Samoa is becoming a
preferred option for Pukapukans visiting in organised groups (tele parties) from
New Zealand and Australia.
The
submerged Tema Reef is situated 23 km southeast of Pukapuka. About 60 km away
is Nassau (Cook Islands) which is owned by the people of Pukapuka and
considered part of it administratively. Since the 1950s it has been governed by
a Council of Chiefs of Pukapuka. The Nassau Island Committee advises the
Pukapuka Island Committee on matters relating to its own island.
A Few
Facts & Figures
Area: 1.3 sq km
Population: approx.
300
Climate: Temperate
Languages: Cook Island
Maori, English and their own Pukapuka dialiect.
I was reading an old National Geographic (Vol. 149, no.6, June 1976) and it states that Magellan and his ships sighted the islands on the 24th of January 1521. Thought because they found no anchorage, they moved on.
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